Eliot Jenkins

Vineyard road

Bordeaux and the surrounding area · 8 May 2026

Vineyard road

New season's growth just starting to climb the wires, rows running off toward a cluster of farm buildings under an overcast sky - a working vineyard rather than a showpiece château, which is the ordinary reality behind most of the region's wine. The vines are grafted, every one of them, onto American rootstock: the phylloxera aphid arrived from America in the 1860s and killed nearly every vine in France, and the only cure was to grow French grapes on roots the aphid could not eat.

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